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Battery Isolator Relay Kit


​I have been running a second battery for a while now and have been very happy with the additional battery life. To see the write up on the second battery install, please click here: 2nd Battery and Washer Reservoir 

When I installed the second battery kit I decided to wire it in parallel with the primary battery. This was a quick and easier solution for me at the time. 

Wiring it in parallel has worked well with the one exception. If the primary battery died, in most cases, the second would too. When both batteries died I had to rely on a jump from another vehicle or using a jump kit.
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I knew there was a better option out there. Just like most builds, it took me a while to decide how I wanted it set up.

While at the 2016 Lone Star Toyota Jamboree, I spoke with my friend Nathan (Parkes & Rec) who was also running a second battery. He showed me his setup that he had built. It included a battery, battery cables, tray, 200 amp battery isolator, voltage gauge, and an on/off switch.

This allows the user to control when the second battery is in use and isolates the second battery from the primary. If the primary battery dies, it does not affect the second battery if the switch was off. By doing this, if the primary battery dies, using the switch, you can turn on the second battery and crank.

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​After seeing his setup, I realized I had found my solution.

Nathan offers a second battery install kit. It comes with everything you need, minus the battery. I already had the second battery and tray, all I needed was the isolation kit which Nathan provided. 


The installation process was simple and straight forward. The kit comes pre wired and ready to go. 
Even though I have done all my own wiring on past projects, this was my first time with something like this and I had a few questions. Nathan was very helpful and did a great job answering them.

The most time consuming process for me was deciding where I wanted to mount the isolator.

My engine bay is cluttered and real estate is at a premium, especially on the passenger side. I am running the Shrock Works second battery tray (stock windshield washer location), Shrock Works windshield washer fluid reservoir (passenger side wheel well adjacent to air intake box), and sPOD. 

I decided to mount the battery isolator relay next to the washer reservoir. In order to do this, I had a special bracket made to hold it in place. 


We figured out the design and dimensions of the bracket and my buddy, who has a fancy laser, was kind enough to cut the bracket out of ABS plastic for me.  
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Of course, I forgot to take pictures of the mounting bracket before doing the install, but it measures about 3" wide and 6" long. The bracket is secured uses the two bolts that holding the washer reservoir in place. The isolator is secured to the bracket and the reservoir.

Once the isolator was mounted, I ran the wiring for the on off switch and voltage meter through the firewall on the passenger side and into the cabin. Normally I run all my wire through the firewall on the drivers side, but because of the isolator location and the amount of wire already ran on the drivers side, I decided the passenger side would be a easier and better option. 

There are two rubber boots on the passenger side firewall. I used the left most boot to run the wire through. I pulled the boot out and cut a small hole in the rubber. Once I ran the wire through, I used silicon to seal the hole. Before sealing the hole, I made sure I had enough wire on both sides.

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​After running the wire into the cabin, I pulled the radio faceplate and removed the circular security indicator and circular passenger air bag indicator. Like other people, I wanted to use those locations to mount the switch and voltage meter for the isolator.

If you decide to mount something there too, but have never taken the faceplate or center switch panel off, it might look like a daunting task, but I assure you it isn't. Just have the right tools and beer!

​To see a "How-To" on removing the radio faceplate, please click here: Radio Faceplate

​To see a "How-To" on removing the center switch panel, please click here: Center Switch Panel
It should be noted; I did not remove the center switch panel for this install, just the radio faceplate, but you might want to do something different. 

I was able to run the wire behind the glove box and up to the faceplate without any issues.


​Before cleaning up all of the wiring and putting the interior back together, I wired both batteries to the isolator and did a test of the system.

What I didn't want to happen was clean everything up, do a test and realize I forgot to connect something. That would have lead to more beers (don't mind that), cursing (nothing new) and taking everything apart again (to lazy for that).
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After the test, it was time to get everything cleaned up, open a celebratory beer and play with the new stuff I just installed.

I am very happy with the fit, function and quality of this kit. Very simple to install and any questions I had, Nathan answered. I would estimate installation took about 4 hours. Under normal circumstances, installation should not take that long, but due to my OCD, ADD, and whatever else ends in D, it took me longer than it should have.

​If you're looking for a second battery kit that comes with the tray and everything else you need (minus battery), you can't go wrong with the kit offered by Parkes & Rec.  
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-To learn more about or purchase the Battery Isolator Relay or Second Battery Kit, please click on the link below-
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