Early on in my build, I knew that I would be running a lot of extra LED lights on the exterior of the FJ. I had an idea that some of my adventures might take me to remote, dark areas and I wanted enough light to navigate safely.
Another benefit to having additional lighting is the ability to spot wildlife on the side of the road way. That's not always possible because of other vehicles, but on dark country or mountain roads where there isn't much traffic, running with extra lights (front and sides) can be a hug benefit. |
LED lights do not suck up as much power as HID lights or incandescent lights do. Having said that, its important that you have a good power source and control source to run them safely and efficiently. The down side to my last statement is, I don't know too much about electrical other than it can hurt and it can burn if done wrong. Because of this, I took a journey down the interweb and began researching ways to properly wire auxiliary lighting and other auxiliary components. I saw that switches, relays, fuses, magic, and circuits were recommended. I looked at wire diagrams and watched videos and then realized, I didn't understand any of that. |
The switch box that comes with the kit is intended to mount in the open space below the air vent on the driver side. I pulled the vent panel and started measuring and marking out where the switch box would mount. My friend Kennedy insisted on cutting out the mounting space. I kind of trust him so I decided to let him give it a whirl. |
The sPOD unit is intended to mount against the firewall on the passenger side. There are two threaded studs that protrude from the firewall. The sPOD uses those studs to mount. Not that it needed it, but I also used double sided tape to help secure it against the firewall. Once the sPOD was in place, I used the included nuts to secure the unit to the studs. |